Just a note to remind you that now is the time we have our best selection of new roses and fruit trees. Fruit trees especially can start to sell out by early February.

We have been having weather in the low to mid 20's the last few nights. Obviously things like Hibiscus and Bougainvillea are at risk in this kind of weather.

What many people do not know is that other evergreen plants like azaleas, bottlebrush, pandorea are also at risk. Even very hardy plants can be damaged by weather that drops into the 20's and goes up to the 40's or 50's.

what can happen is that the frosting process forces moisture out of the foliage and the warming temps evaporates it of the foliage. The plant needs to replace it and if the plant is dry it can be damaged by freezing. Check out your garden during this kind of weather and be sure to thoroughly soak anything that might be dry. Especially check out plants in containers!

A warning.

If you check during the period the soil is frozen you can't tell and when it first thaws the freezing brings moisture to the surface and can make the surface look like it is moist when the soil below is dry. Check down a few inches to be sure!

At the nursery I noticed some primroses wilted next to others that look fine. The wilted ones were dry and the wilting was czused by the cold weather.

We check the nursery at least every 2 days during this kind of weather

Here it is the start of a new gardening year. Even though it is January there are a few things you can do even now to make for a better garden this coming spring.

First among these is rose pruning. Every January we have a series of pruning seminars on rose and fruit trees.

The schedule for roses is:

Saturday Jan 13 at 10 am
Sunday Jan 14 at 2 pm
Saturday Jan 20 at 2 pm
Sunday Jan 21 at 10 am

The schedule for fruit trees is:

Saturday Jan 13 at 2 pm
Sunday Jan 14 at 10 am
Saturday Jan 20 at 10 am
Sunday Jan 21 at 2 pm

A short version of what I talk about at the rose pruning seminar is:

1) In most cases shorten to ½ or less depending on the growth of the individual variety

2) Out with the old and in with the new. Here I mean you are trying to encourage basal breaks (these are new shoots from near or at the graft union). The new basal breaks are to replace old and tired old canes.

3) Thin out the old and weak growth and try to open the center to allow more light and air. This encourages basal breaks and reduces disease.

4) Fertilize, fertilize and fertilize. This is the number one thing most people can do to encourage more blooms.

5) Don’t sweat the small stuff. By this I mean roses will bloom no matter what you do to them!

For more info come in and attend one of the seminars or talk to one of the nursery pros at the nursery.